Bicycling in Northern Thailand.

[klaas]

I traveled a few times with my own bicycle in Thailand. In november I think to cycle from Chiang Rai east to Chiang Saen and Chiang Khong and end in Bangkok. It seems the Nan province is worth visiting, but the roads from Chiang Khong to Nan seem very steep. Someone was there? How are the roads from Nan to Uttaradit, not over the 101 but the byways?
Any other experience that may help making the plan?

greetings

Klaas

[Tim]

I've done quite a bit of motorbike riding in Nan province. Bottom line is that it is a very hilly province and you will have to deal with some pretty serious elevation changes in many areas. It's nearly always possible to pay to take your bicycle on public transportation, so that's one possible option for particular stretches. Having said that, here are a few thoughts.

I don't know the roads out of Chiang Khong, but if you get down to Pong in Phayao province, highway 1090 through Chiang Muan and into Nan is a good stretch without too much traffic. Note that there is a road running south from Ban Luang to 101, that bypasses Nan town, but it has some very steep hills. Closer to Nan there are some smaller roads to the south that are pretty good and can eventually lead to Nan.

Out of Nan town, the roads just to the east of 101 would be excellent for bicycle riding, though signage on these smaller roads is confusing at best. You can get down to Wiang Sa nicely on these roads. From Wiang Sa, you can attempt to follow smaller roads that parallel 101, but it looks like you'd be forced onto 101 at some point. You can also go south to Amphoe Na Noi (that road, highway 1026, is a little busy with traffic). There's a great road running west out of Na Noi into Phrae province, but it does have a couple of gorgeous range crossings that would be tough climbs. From the end of that road into Phrae town the roads are mostly excellent.

From Phrae to Uttaradit, the choices are limited, because you are forced to stay west of the Sirikit Dam system. The main route is 101 to Den Chai and then highway 11 to Uttaradit. Getting to Den Chai on 101 by bicycle would be reasonably okay, but that stretch of highway 11 is too narrow, often crowded, and dangerous. If I rode that way, I'd try to hit it very early in the day. That stretch parallels the northern rail line, so both bus and train are options to Uttaradit from Den Chai.

So, if I were going to make that ride, I'd get (somehow) to Pong, take 1090 (mostly) into Nan. Then go south to Wiang Sa on the side roads, ride or possibly take a bus to Na Noi. I'd try to be leaving Na Noi early because the next stretch doesn't have towns of any size for a while; it's kind of a back way into Phrae province, and, as I mentioned, there are a couple ranges to cross, most notably at the Nan-Phrae border. Then out of Phrae take 101 or try to find side roads to Den Chai. From there I'd try to take a third class train or bus into Uttaradit, or brave highway 11 early in the morning.

[Tim]

From Phrae to Uttaradit, the choices are limited, because you are forced to stay west of the Sirikit Dam system.

Okay, if you're adventurous and don't mind getting way off the beaten path, there is another way that will avoid highway 101 entirely. It's possible to get around the east side of the Sirikit Dam system and completely bypass Phrae province. After getting to Na Noi as I described previously, you can go east on highway 1083 past Sri Nan National Park and continue on into Uttaradit province, and then come around the south side of the Sirikit Dam system and come into Uttaradit from the east. This stretch of 1083 is incredibly unpopulated; there are hardly any villages, much less towns of any size, once you get much past the park. It's quite beautiful though, and the road surface is generally great. At the end of 1083, the map shows you can take 1047 and then 1045 to get to Uttaradit, and there are towns at that point. I haven't gone entirely around that circuit, but I've come from Uttaradit along 1045 by car to Ta Pla.

[klaas]

I've done quite a bit of motorbike riding in Nan province. Bottom line is that it is a very hilly province and you will have to deal with some pretty serious elevation changes in many areas. It's nearly always possible to pay to take your bicycle on public transportation, so that's one possible option for particular stretches. Having said that, here are a few thoughts.

I don't know the roads out of Chiang Khong, but if you get down to Pong in Phayao province, highway 1090 through Chiang Muan and into Nan is a good stretch without too much traffic. Note that there is a road running south from Ban Luang to 101, that bypasses Nan town, but it has some very steep hills. Closer to Nan there are some smaller roads to the south that are pretty good and can eventually lead to Nan.

Out of Nan town, the roads just to the east of 101 would be excellent for bicycle riding, though signage on these smaller roads is confusing at best. You can get down to Wiang Sa nicely on these roads. From Wiang Sa, you can attempt to follow smaller roads that parallel 101, but it looks like you'd be forced onto 101 at some point. You can also go south to Amphoe Na Noi (that road, highway 1026, is a little busy with traffic). There's a great road running west out of Na Noi into Phrae province, but it does have a couple of gorgeous range crossings that would be tough climbs. From the end of that road into Phrae town the roads are mostly excellent.

From Phrae to Uttaradit, the choices are limited, because you are forced to stay west of the Sirikit Dam system. The main route is 101 to Den Chai and then highway 11 to Uttaradit. Getting to Den Chai on 101 by bicycle would be reasonably okay, but that stretch of highway 11 is too narrow, often crowded, and dangerous. If I rode that way, I'd try to hit it very early in the day. That stretch parallels the northern rail line, so both bus and train are options to Uttaradit from Den Chai.

So, if I were going to make that ride, I'd get (somehow) to Pong, take 1090 (mostly) into Nan. Then go south to Wiang Sa on the side roads, ride or possibly take a bus to Na Noi. I'd try to be leaving Na Noi early because the next stretch doesn't have towns of any size for a while; it's kind of a back way into Phrae province, and, as I mentioned, there are a couple ranges to cross, most notably at the Nan-Phrae border. Then out of Phrae take 101 or try to find side roads to Den Chai. From there I'd try to take a third class train or bus into Uttaradit, or brave highway 11 early in the morning.

[klaas]

Thanks a lot. Very helpfull.

[bassai]

klaas, how about some posts and pictures after your trip? I'm an avid cyclist and would love to hear about your experiences and get clued in on some nice riding.

[klaas]

Gladly!