Bang Khun Thian district

[Khun Don]

Blurring Borders

With the sea driving boundary markers further from shore, a coastal district in Bangkok south turns a corner

Published: 10/06/2010 at 12:00 AM
Newspaper section: Horizons

Land markers are a dime a dozen. When all is said and done few leave lasting impressions on travellers. However, there are two in southern Bangkok that are kind of unique, even evocative, because the land on which they originally stood has been claimed by the sea.

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A boat ferrying tourists to the 28th boundary marker.

The said markers are in Bang Khun Thian district on Thon Buri side of the capital city. The one known as the 28th delineates the boundary between Bangkok and Samut Prakan and the other, the 29th, demarcates Bangkok and Samut Sakhon,

The area, for all it seems, is an emerging weekend attraction, thanks to the expressway and the Southern Outer Ring Road that make it quite accessible.

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Coastal erosion the past 30 years saw the sea gobble up land on which they initially stood, with the result that both markers remained submerged until a decade ago when the city administration erected structures marking out the points in order to make them conspicuous.

A tiered edifice supported on four concrete poles was built for each marker, after which the markers were lifted above sea level. But it is the 28th marker that is the tourist draw and today it stands about a kilometre from the nearest shore.

To get there you need to take a long-tailed boat. The service is available at a pier on Phitthayalongkorn canal, the ride lasting about 20 minutes. On the way you notice the canal is dotted with electricity poles and houses that not long ago stood on firm ground.

As the boat sets out to sea you'll see a green zone of mangrove forest on both sides and a dilapidated signboard marking the spot where Irrawaddy dolphins are seen.

Minutes later you arrive at the 28th boundary marker and the boat navigates around it to enable passengers a close look and snap pictures. You can't get off the boat _ there being no pier _ although last November the city announced plans to build a two-storey facility complete with a viewing point, but the lack of funding means the project is on hold.

Still, the boat ride gives a good peek at the life of people in the area, and not far from the marker is a seafood restaurant serving up tasty fares at very affordable prices.

More seafood options await on land along Bang Khun Thian-Chai Talay Road, an 11.45-kilometre stretch in excellent condition after a three-year renovation and expansion that cost the city government 800 million baht. Now there are plans to beautify the road by installing sculptures at regular intervals and bring it on par with Utthayan or Aksa Road that connects Phutthamonthon Sai 3 and Sai 4.

The road connects several interesting spots such as Wat Hua Krabeu where you can board a long-tailed boat to the habitat of crab-eating macaques. The temple is also host to a vintage car museum and a flea market on weekends.

Out the temple to its right is a huge monument built in the shape of warship and dedicated to Prince Chumphon Khet Udomsak, father of the Royal Thai Navy. The monument is replica of Thailand's first naval vessel, the Phra Ruang, he commanded.

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In Thian Talay Soi 26 is this shrine dedicated to Prince Chumphon, father of the Royal Thai Navy, and erected by the Pratheep Phoon Phol Foundation. The shrine is a replica of Thailand’s first warship the prince commanded, the Phra Ruang. Atop the shrine is his life-size statue and a glass cabinet containing his naval uniform, while the first floor displays his works and biography.

More,with many more pics: http://www.bangkokpost.com/travel/tr...urrung-borders

[PaulWilding]

Interesting, In used to work there. All I remember is a polluted main road and a maze of huge factories, warehouses and soi's.

[Richard Barrow]

It is actually quite a nice area to explore. I last went there about 4 years ago and this article prompts me that I should do a return visit. They were building a direct road from Samut Prakan to this area when I was last there. Something tells me it won't be finished yet.

[SunTzu]

Interesting, In used to work there. All I remember is a polluted main road and a maze of huge factories, warehouses and soi's.

That's what the area near Rama II looks like, but if you continue that road to the end (Chai Thaley), you will quickly find yourself on a fine network of vanishing land, surrounded by larger and larger areas of water : fish and shrimps ponds.

Then, leave your car, and jump on a boat (only other transportation being bicycles rentend in the nearby school - 20bahts/day a few years ago). you'll then venture on the canals network, surrounded by mangroves.

Seafood is fresh and delicious in the numerous large restaurants available, the one on the brink of the seas being by far my favorite.


Anyways, a must-do visit, feeling like discovering the edge of the world, for Bangkok visitors and dwellers alike : would you have thought that Bangkok actually met the sea ?

[ahoerstemeier]

Maybe a good starting point to explore this Bangkok district would be the BMA local museum of Bang Khun Thian, located within Klong Phitayalongkorn School. I haven't visited that one yet, but about 10 others of these local museums, which though having a small budget and are rather modest, give a nice insight into local traditions, sights, history.